Taste of Montreal | Standard

Gail Simmons is a cookbook author and judge on the popular TV show Top Chef, sampling cuisine from around the world.

But when it comes to choosing a favorite city for dining, as well as business travel, Canadian-born Simmons has it all in Montreal.

Simmons, who lives in Brooklyn, New York, takes us on a foodie tour of the iconic French-Canadian city.

What I love the most: I grew up in Toronto, but I went to college in Montreal and my mom's whole family lives there. My husband is also from Montreal, so it's like a second home to me.

Culturally, Montreal is very different from the rest of Canada – it's a French city in a French province. Very European in architecture.

First stop: If I land in the morning, my first stop is Arthur's Nosh Bar (Rue Notre Dame West), a Jewish deli. The gastronomic culture in Montreal is the largest and it is very different from the gastronomic culture of the USA.

Bagels are different. Cured meat is different. There are many good examples of classic delis, including Schwartz, Lester or Wilensky – unchanged in 100 years, Arthurs respects this gastronomic culture, but it is modern.

Where to stay: I'm staying with my family, but my recommendation is Hotel William Gray (Rue Saint Vincent). This is a wonderful boutique hotel in Old Montreal, right on the St. Lawrence River. The Four Seasons (Rue de la Montagne), which opened in 2019, is beautiful. Chef Markus Samuelsson has a wonderful restaurant called Markus.

My parents were married at the historic Ritz Carlton (Sherbrooke St. West), Montreal's classiest, high-end hotel.

Best Food Market: I take every cook and friend I have to the Jean Talon Market in Little Italy. This is especially great during the summer months. On the perimeter you'll find regular shops, including an amazing wine shop and butcher, as well as a very Canadian local grocery store, Marche Des Saveurs Du Quebec.

Closer to Old Montreal, Atsu Market is smaller and slightly more expensive. It's right next to Notre Dame Street, which has a lot of great restaurants, including very popular establishments like Joe Beef and Liverpool House, as well as some of the biggest vintage furniture stores anywhere.

Coffee spot: My morning coffee spot is Crew Collective & Cafe (Rue St-Jacques), located in the lobby of a converted bank building. It's a big, architecturally significant space, and they make great coffee.

Power lunch: My brother was a judge at the Supreme Court of Quebec and he used to take me to L'Express (Rue Saint-Denis) for lunch. This is a famous French bistro with all the classics and it can compete with anything in Paris.

Monarque (Rue St-Jacques) is another fine dining restaurant serving fine French cuisine.

Best bagels: There are New York bagels, and there are Montreal bagels. People love to compare them, but you can't.

Montreal bagels are first boiled in water with honey, so they are less sweet. There is no salt in the dough, they are cooked in a wood oven. They only come in a few flavors. The classic flavor is sesame. The two main producers are St-Viateur (various locations) and Fairmount (Fairmount West Ave).

Eat one very hot and freeze the rest. Don't leave them because they get old. We collect them.

Favorite Poutine: A sweet French potato pastry topped with cheese curds and gravy, served drunk or with a meal. So don't get it from a fancy restaurant.

The best place for poutine is at the counter of a convenience store called depanneurs.

Desserts: Like France, Montreal has a huge bread and pastry culture with many great pastry chefs. La Bete a Pain (at various locations) is great. Patisserie Kouign Amann (Mont-Royal East) makes its namesake puff pastry, a laminated puff pastry that's the best I've ever had.

Dinner: Montreal Plaza (Rue St. Hubert) – French bistro. Owning Joe Beef and Liverpool House, Vin Papillon (Rue Notre Dame West) has great vegetables, great food and a great wine list.

Vin Mont Lapin (Rue Prince), which means “My Rabbit,” was recently named the #1 restaurant in Canada. It's not fussy or fancy, but the food is delicious. For something a little more elegant and upscale, try Le Serpent (Rue St-Zotique East) or Bouillon Bilk (St Laurent Blvd).

Only insiders know: Montreal means “Mount Royal”. Beaver Lake at the top of the mountain has an ice rink. On the way up there are many lookout points with great views of the city. Carnatzels, a traditional kosher dried beef stick, are unique to Montreal. You see them hanging out to dry in the windows of Jewish delis. You can even find them in cocktail bars.

Favorite souvenir: bagels! And maple syrup.