My Dominican Republic Surfing Adventure | What to do

Early morning at Encuentro Beach near the town of Cabarete on the north coast of the Dominican Republic. Palm trees frame the shore as the sun hits the horizon. It's still cold, not quite as hot as the Caribbean fire. Before hitting the waves for our first lesson at 7am with Swell Surfing Camp, our group, with surfboards in hand, gathers at the shore to surf.

My goal is to convince my not-so-young body after six decades on this planet that I can still learn to surf.

“It's less about age and more about mindset,” declares Swell's website. When I found a surf camp that catered to mature travelers and offered instruction, boutique accommodations, and a fun, social environment with other like-minded professionals, I suggested that my husband book a vacation.

Swell was founded in 2009 by Claire Barnaby and her husband Jimmy. At the time, Cabarete was known for its trade winds and sheltered reef, which attracted windsurfers and kite flying. But “back then, surf camps were primarily a raw place for pot-smoking 19-year-olds,” says Barnaby, who identified an underserved market: the mature surfer.

Barnaby himself learned to surf when he was 52, and Swell says the average guest age is 44. But the oldest person they taught was 70, so I still have hope.

The van that takes us to the surf beach leaves twice a day: at dawn and at 10:30 for the second session. Waking up before breakfast to exercise isn't good for your body clock, and setting a daily alarm while you're on vacation isn't natural. But great surfing conditions don't wait for anyone, they come with the morning waves. Plus, our after-class breakfast makes up for it. Who knew surfing could work up an appetite to burn 1,000 calories in one sitting?

After witnessing my attempt to simulate a slow-motion pop-up, where surfers slide from horizontal to standing in nanoseconds, my instructor suggests a modified approach: the left-leg chest lift. The performance is slow, but allows me to get the position right. It's hard to be flexible and fast enough, but our group's sunrise stretch helps; soon, I'm even looking forward to the ceremony.

Balancing on a moving surfboard is terrifying. On the first day, I spend more time tossing around like a rag doll in the washing machine than I do standing up. But on the third day, both my husband and I taste success. On the fifth day, I ride white water waves to the shore and enjoy the feeling of freedom. In the following lessons we will learn acceleration, breaking and turning. This helps when performing parallel movements familiar from water skiing, windsurfing and skateboarding.

In addition to shaved elbows and knees for newbies, we treat shoulders, arms, and core muscles every day, even though I'm prepared with pre-trip workouts. But the win of learning new skills makes it all worth it. There is also some Advil.

The seventh day dawned on Encuentro Beach. Our once-strangers, now fast friends, exited the van on their last day at camp with the camaraderie and enthusiasm of children. Our aching muscles, burning like burnt pieces of toast, return again.

After a warm tropical rain, the sun breaks through the clouds and a rainbow appears on the horizon. I spot a perfect wave, paddle in and pull up. With the power of the water and a clear determination, I proudly push myself to the shore. Barnaby was right. It's not about age. It's about attitude.